HONA Builder Gel Prescriptive Manicure Guide
Choosing Between TrueFoundation, TrueBuild & BuilderPot
At HONA, we’ve never believed in a one-size-fits-all approach to manicures. Every client has unique nails, lifestyles, and goals, which means their manicure should be just as tailored. A prescriptive manicure is more than just a service; it’s an expert-led experience that positions you as the go-to nail tech for results that actually last.
By assessing your client’s nail type and concerns, you can recommend the right HONA builder gel for their individual needs. Whether they need strengthening, flexibility, structure, or support, we’ve created a product to suit.
In this guide, we’ll explore three of our HEMA-free, hypoallergenic builder gels:
TrueFoundation, TrueBuild, and BuilderPot, highlighting who they’re best suited for, how to apply them, and the differences between them.
TrueBuild
TrueBuild offers nail technicians enhanced control thanks to its higher viscosity and delivers a base-coat-free performance through a formula designed for strength, speed, and safety.
It has all the properties of a traditional builder gel, with a thicker viscosity and a rigid, strong finish, all while staying true to HONA's beliefs by being hypoallergenic.
Which client should I use TrueBuild on?
TrueBuild is ideal for clients with healthy natural nails who are looking to add extra strength, structure, or a touch of length. Its rigid, hard-wearing formula makes it perfect for those who prefer a more durable, long-lasting finish without flexibility.
It’s designed to support natural nail growth and can be used to build a defined apex, offering the structure needed for both short, healthy nails and longer nails.
If your client is after a strong, sculpted look with a high level of durability, TrueBuild is a great match.
How to apply TrueBuild?
- Step 1: Perfect your prep
The key to long-lasting results is in skilful prep of the natural nail, this is especially true for HEMA-Free gel products. HEMA is the monomer that enhances the adhesion of a coating on the nail plate. Higher percentages of HEMA allow for maximum adhesion with minimal nail prep. When HEMA isn't present, prep becomes more important to ensure a safer long-lasting manicure.
- Step 2: Application
Once your prep is complete you can choose to do a layer of PureBond, this is an optional step for clients who may be heavy handed or prone to chipping and lifting, PureBond is bonding agent that cures for 30 seconds providing a tacky layer for product to adhere to.
Next you can apply your TrueBuild, starting with a cured paper layer before applying your bead and curing for 60seconds (or 90s on low heat mode).
TrueFoundation
TrueFoundation is our universal builder gel, combining the flexibility of a rubber base with the strength of a builder, all in one hypoallergenic formula.
It features a key ingredient that forms strong bonds with keratin, the protein found in natural nails. This creates enhanced adhesion, reducing the risk of chipping, peeling, or lifting.
With a flexible consistency, TrueFoundation moves with the nail for long-lasting wear and a comfortable feel. It self-levels beautifully, requires no base coat, and can be used for overlays and structured manicures.
Which clients should I use PureFoundation on?
TrueFoundation is ideal for clients who are heavy-handed or experience issues with lifting, chipping, or poor retention. Its flexible formula moves with the natural nail, reducing stress on the enhancement and helping to maintain wear between appointments.
Because of its advanced adhesive properties, it’s also a great starting point for nail techs or clients who are new to HEMA-free systems. The strong keratin bonding makes it reliable even without a base coat.
Whether you're working with short natural nails or looking for a strengthening overlay, TrueFoundation is a go-to for everyday durability with a more forgiving, flexible feel.
How To Apply PureFoundation
- Step 1: Perfect your prep
The key to long-lasting results is in skilful prep of the natural nail, this is especially true for HEMA-Free gel products. HEMA is the monomer that enhances the adhesion of a coating on the nail plate. Higher percentages of HEMA allow for maximum adhesion with minimal nail prep. When HEMA isn't present, prep becomes more important to ensure a safer long-lasting manicure.
- Step 2 : TrueFoundation Application
Once your prep is complete you can choose to do a layer of TrueBond, this is an optional step for clients who may be heavy handed or prone to chipping and lifting, TrueBond is bonding agent that cures for 30 seconds providing a tacky layer for product to adhere to.
Next you can apply your TrueFoundation, starting with a cured paper layer before applying your bead and curing for 90 seconds (on low heat mode).
BuilderPot
BuilderPot offers the same high-performance, hypoallergenic formula as TrueBuild, but in a pot, with a thinner viscosity that some techs prefer for ease of application.
Designed for nail technicians who like to work directly from a pot using a gel brush, BuilderPot gives you greater control and a smooth, precise application. Its consistency allows for easy sculpting while maintaining the durability and strength you expect from a professional builder gel.
With all the same benefits as TrueBuild including hypoallergenic safety, excellent adhesion, and long-lasting wear, BuilderPot is simply a different way to work, tailored to your technique and preference.
What client should I use BuilderPot on?
BuilderPot is ideal for clients with healthy natural nails who need extra strength, structure, or added length. Like TrueBuild, it offers a rigid, durable finish, perfect for those who prefer a strong, sculpted manicure without flexibility.
It’s designed to support nail growth and allows you to build a defined apex, making it suitable for both short and longer nails (with correct structure in place).
If your client wants a hard-wearing enhancement and you prefer working from a pot for precise control, BuilderPot is the ideal solution.
How to apply BuilderPot?
- Step 1: Perfect your prep
The key to long-lasting results lies in thorough, skilful prep of the natural nail – and this is especially important when working with HEMA-free products.
HEMA is a monomer that enhances adhesion with minimal prep. Since BuilderPot is HEMA-free, proper prep is essential for ensuring safe, long-lasting wear.
- Step 2: Application
After completing your prep, you may choose to apply a layer of TrueBond. This is optional but recommended for clients who are heavy-handed or prone to chipping and lifting. TrueBond acts as a bonding agent and cures for 30 seconds, creating a tacky layer for improved adhesion.
Next, use a medium flat gel brush to pick up your BuilderPot directly from the pot. Apply a thin slip layer and cure, followed by your builder bead to create structure and shape.
Cure for 60 seconds (or 90 seconds in low heat mode) depending on the lamp and thickness of the application.
Summary
Whether you’re new to HONA or looking to elevate your builder gel services, offering a prescriptive manicure ensures every client gets exactly what their nails need. With our range of HEMA-free, hypoallergenic builder gels, you can work with confidence and create long-lasting, personalised results.