February 24, 2026

A guide to applying HEMA Free products

A Guide to Applying HEMA Free

Switching to a HEMA Free system is more than just changing your bottle. It’s about refining your technique.

At HONA, we recognise that moving to a HEMA Free brand can mean adapting your prep and application steps. Over HONA’s journey, we’ve perfected our universal guide to applying HEMA Free products, covering prep, application, and the top tips that make all the difference.

In this guide, we break down everything you need to know to achieve long-lasting, professional results with HEMA Free products.

Perfecting Your Prep - Why Prep Is So Important

Prep is a massively important factor when it comes to getting long-lasting results from a HEMA Free brand.

The key to long-lasting retention is in skilful preparation of the natural nail and this is especially true for HEMA Free gel systems.

You might be wondering why.

HEMA (Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) is a monomer that enhances adhesion between the product and the nail plate. Higher percentages of HEMA allow for maximum adhesion with minimal prep. When HEMA isn’t present, prep becomes even more important to ensure a safe, strong, long-lasting manicure.

A well-prepped nail plate creates the perfect foundation for adhesion without relying on higher-risk ingredients.

Our guide is here to help you perfect your HEMA Free prep and achieve consistent, reliable retention.

How to Prep for HEMA Free

Step 1: Sanitise and Dehydrate

Sanitise your client’s hands before you begin. We recommend spraying both hands and forearms with an anti-bacterial spray s to ensure you are working on a clean surface and reducing bacteria risk.

Wear nitrile gloves throughout the service. Gloves are essential not only for hygiene, but to reduce the risk of chemical exposure to your own skin.

Next, dehydrate the nail. Scrub the side walls, under the free edge and across the nail plate to ensure all oils and residue are removed. Starting with dehydration ensures surface oils are eliminated before moving into prep.

Step 2: Cuticle Prep

Push back the cuticle
Hold your tool like a pencil and gently push back the cuticle using a cuticle pusher. Focus on removing non-living tissue from the nail surface. Let the weight of the tool do the work and avoid pressure.

Nip excess cuticle
Carefully remove any dry, white, non-living tissue with cuticle nippers. If it’s living tissue, it will not appear dry or white, never cut living skin.

Clean, precise cuticle work is critical for preventing lifting.

Step 3: Dehydrate Again

Before etching, remove any remaining debris or oil from the nail plate.

Saturate a lint-free wipe with 100% acetone and thoroughly scrub the side walls, cuticle area and under the free edge.

This final cleanse ensures optimal adhesion before filing.

Step 4: File and Etch

Shape the free edge using a 240-grit nail file. File in one direction towards the centre of the nail. Then repeat from the opposite side back to the centre. This technique reduces splitting and breakage.

Next, etch the nail plate using a 150-grit file.

Apply next to no pressure and stop as soon as the shine is removed. You are not thinning the nail you are simply creating texture for the product to grip onto.

Ensure you:

Etch the cuticle area
Etch the side walls
Etch the top of the free edge

Missed areas are common lifting points.

Step 5: TrueBond

Once prep is complete we recommend that you go in with TrueBond

TrueBond is HONA’s multi-purpose bonder and is ideal for heavy-handed clients or those prone to lifting. Apply after prep and cure for 30 Seconds. From here, continue with your chosen HEMA Free base and builder system.

Application

The next step in your HEMA Free journey is mastering application.

HEMA Free products often have slightly different consistencies and working times compared to traditional high-HEMA systems. Understanding product control, thin controlled layers and correct curing is key.

We offer a range of resources to support you including our FREE TrueBuild Masterclass, designed to help you refine your technique and maximise retention.

Focus on:

Thin, controlled & cured paper layers
Correct curing times
Avoiding flooding the cuticle
Sealing and capping the free edge
Respecting the inhibition layer

When prep is strong, application becomes easier and more predictable.

Helpful Guides & Resources

To continue perfecting your technique, explore:

Tools & Products

We've got a range of tools & products available to help your HEMA Free journey!

Using HEMA Free products isn’t about compromise. It’s about working smarter, prioritising safety, and refining technique.

When prep is precise and application is controlled, HEMA Free systems deliver exceptional, long-lasting results